Dash mounted gauge pods

5spd07gt wrote:Although i've never had Will work on my car he is a pretty good poker player ;)

LOL I think that was a mirrored comment... since we split the pot haha...

haha, i guess thats true. never looked at it that way. Will can also pick you out a nice pinata

i guess i was playin a little careless since it wasnt my money!

haha

I have a air compressor but not the best air tools. What type of gear oil do we use on the new cars. I will pick it up or order it. I have a jack and stands but dont have a large c clamp. I have been trying to buy tools when the extra money was in place for mechanic work. Thanks alot.

Well since you have the stock diff aI would get the 140w motorsport oil from the dealer. Its fairly expensive IIRC at like 20 or 30 a quart. When I changed my dif to a Detroit Tru-Trac I changed over to amzoil 90w

I can bring the c-clamp

One more reason for using the stock gear oil is that it already has the friction additive in it.

ok sounds good. My car came with 3:55 gears from the dealer so I was content with them. I will have the car on jack stands and tires out of the way for us a head of time. This will save time. I will message you my cell number as soon as Fed ex delivers it. i got a new one with a new number and my wife is away with the number right now. I might try to climb under the car this week to and change the shifter out to the pro 5.0 but need to see what time looks like and how much room I have to do it under the car

Shifter is a pretty easy job. 4 bolts and its out. I lowered my driveshaft for a little extra room, but its not needed. You can install it without dropping the front of the driveshaft. Unscrew the shift nob, take the shift boot off. Take the bolt and two gromments of the shifter arm. There are two bolts that attach to the driveshaft tunnel, and finally the stabalizer bolt that the shifter bolts to the transmission case. That one will be the hardest to get to. Its a 10mm bolt thats fairly long, with a brass bushing. remember how they come off, because if you put them backwards, it will be hard to get it in gear for 5th and reverse. I used a 1/4" drive ratchet with a swivel 10mm but you can use a shorty 10mm and a universal. When it backs out about 10 turns it will bind against the transmission tunnel and you will need to use a 10mm wrench for the final turns. It will seem like it wont come out, but if you cock it a little it will pull out. The entire assembly can either be worked through the floor up through the shifter hole, or taken down around the driveshaft. Both ways are fairly tight, and that is why I opted to drop the front of the driveshaft.

The shifter is one nice piece. I love mine. However I would rather NOT have a remote shifter all together. It feels sloppy no matter what shifter you have in it. However its night and day better than the stock unit.

Thanks it seems like you have done most of the bolt ons. I really appreciate all the info. Saves alot of Money in the long run. They wanted 200 to install the unit.

Getting my duckets together to get the gauges, shifter and rear brakes installed. Will post picks as soon as I learn how to use the website. Hey does anyone know if the shaker 1000 amp and subwoofer will bolt right up to the shaker 500. I have also been looking at getting a ford navigation stereo is it worth it or just buy aftermarket? If aftermarket can I use the existing speakers or a total overhaul is needed

Like to see it installed...